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WINES from Alto Adigo (Italy)
(Aphrodisiac To Women)


      Luigino Bruni






Extending over 7000 square kilometres, the Alto Adige is a mountainous area, just like the rest of the region. 15% of its territory is alpine and non-productive, 70% is woodland and pastureland and a mere 15% is suitable for cultivation. The Alto Adige has always enjoyed a strong wine-growing tradition, due to its typical mountain climate, characterised by sharp daily and seasonal temperature variations, with fresh summers and cold, hard winters. Neither is rainfall too heavy and is well distributed throughout the year. The climate is particularly mild during certain periods due to the imposing mountains that protect the region from the cold northern and hot southern winds (fohn), which only reinforces the region's worth as an excellent wine-producing area.  

Vine-growing and wine production boasts a long tradition in the Alto Adige. The vine was already known long before the arrival of the Romans and its survival and profusion were subsequently guaranteed during the Middle Ages by the Benedictine and Dominican monks when cultivation reached its height, covering an area of 10,000 hectares. Today, however, vine cultivation only covers half that area. This is largely due to the annexation of the Alto Adige to Italy at the end of the war (the largest wine producer in the world), the development of the fruit-growing industry (more profitable) and urbanisation.  

Amongst the most important varieties grown in this area are the Schiava, Lagrein and Traminer Aromatico, not to mention the Kerner, Cabernet, Pinot Nero, Merlot, Moscato Rosa, Malvasia, Mullerthurgau, Riesling, Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Sylvaner and Pinot Bianco. 

98.8% of wine production in the Alto Adige is DOC and most of these vineyards are located on the hills of the Adige Valley between Merano and Salomo and the hills of Val d'Isarco between Bolzano and Bressanone.  

Of the 116 communes in the South Tyrol, vine-growing is the largest employer in 52 of them. Amongst the varieties grown in this region, the most prominent is the Traminer Aromatico, also known as the Gewurztraminer, Savagnin and Traminer Rosa. 

The word Gewurztraminer literally means "roaming" Traminer, a term which draws its origins from the vine's at times over-vigorous growth, resulting in a more distinct flavour when harvested later in the season. The grape's nectar is deemed particularly beneficial to the nervous system due to its invigorating qualities, while its warm, velvet-soft and intense flavour with nuances of almond and vanilla is said to be an aphrodisiac to women. Indeed, the wine's diversity of flavour makes it the ideal accompaniment to dry sweets and cakes, or rather those "without frippery" (Luciano Imbriani).

The origin of this vine are attributed to the wine of Tramin (Termeno), although some still believe it to have originated from Alsace. As early as 1349 it is referred to in the "Book of Nature" by Konrad Megenberg, dean of the Cathedral of Regensburg, the ancient city of Franconia in Germany. It is also said that this wine was the preferred drink of the musical genius Ludwig Van Beethoven.  

The vine is characterised by a rosy-amber coloured grape resistant to both the cold northern winds and cryptogamic disease, as well as the grape moth, mentioned by Pliny the Elder in his "Naturali Historia" under the name "Rubella".  

This variety also flourishes in the Trentino, Friuli Venezia Giulia and the Peligna Valley of Aquila.  

There is however, a vast difference between the Traminer of the Lower Adige and that of the Bressanone valley. In the Lower Adige, the Traminer grape is characterised by a greater sweetness and is more intensely fruity, full-bodied and aromatic, making it the ideal choice for a longer ageing process. In the Val d'Isarco,   the Traminer instead embodies a fresher, more refined flavour with a delicate, floral and slightly aromatic bouquet, fostered by an excellent microclimate.  

Both varieties are characterised by floral nuances of rose, sage, mint, mallow and geranium, all herbs and flowers that feature prominently in the decorations of the region's characteristic farms and beautiful gothic-renaissance castles.  

Of particular note is the region's DOC Traminer Aromatico, an appellation first granted in 1975. With a yield of 12000 kilos per hectare, this wine has a minimum alcohol strength of 11.5 per cent.  

The wine has a straw yellow colour flecked with gold. The bouquet shows intense, lingering aromas with the fruty scent of aromatic apples and citrus fruit, combined with the floral fragrance of orange blossom, interspersed with delicate sweet spices. 

The wine has a dry, warm, soft flavour that is fresh and flavoursome but balanced. Ideally, it should be served at about 12/14°C and gives greatest enjoyment when drunk within the first two years.  

Traminer wine is the perfect accompaniment to a variety of starter dishes such as fish flavoured with herbs, goose liver escalopes, oysters and clam soups made with wine and parsley, lightly smoked salmon, slices of veal served with a tuna and caper mayonnaise sauce, and spaghetti made with a sauce of tuna and fragrant olive oil. It also makes an excellent aperitif.  

The Traminer wine of Val d'lsarco was first registered in 1974. With an annual yield of 10000 kilos per hectare, this wine has a minimum alcohol strength of 11 per cent. It has a yellow straw colour and is characterised by the distinct fragrance of a dry, aromatic, fruity grape. It is the perfect complement to crustacean and shellfish starters and makes the ideal accompaniment to fruit deserts and dry pastries (cf. Enoteca Italia - A.I.S.).

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