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The
Perfect Coffee
If ever a
case can be made for the virtues of simplicity it is in the
act of brewing a good cup of coffee. In fact, it takes more
effort, time, and, in the case of most home brewing machines,
expense to make a bad cup of coffee. Good coffee is made by
mixing freshly ground coffee with freshly boiled water which
has just cooled to 195 degrees F. for no more than four
minutes (o.k., five or maybe six minutes for very coarsely
ground coffee); at this point the liquid (now coffee) and the
coffee grounds must be separated. Issues of grind setting and
the amount of coffee used are important out are chiefly
matters of personal taste and the separation method used when
brewing is completed. The things that can go wrong with
brewing are basic and easy to avoid.
The
simplest brewing methods are the best and they all start with
boiling a freshly drawn kettle of water immediately before
brewing. Then the pitfalls start and the following list covers
the big ones:
1.TOO
LITTLE COFFEE.
Four ounces of coffee per sixty-four ounces of water was once
the food service standard in the U.S. before lower quality,
stronger tasting, robust beans came into use (circa 1960).
Currently, some office coffee suppliers put as little as 3/4
of one ounce of coffee in the portion packs they claim can be
used to brew 64 ounces of coffee. It is perhaps one of the
great injustices of life that the better and more expensive a
coffee is, the stronger it should be brewed to be fully
enjoyed.
2.THE
WRONG (USUALLY TOO FINE) GRIND
Grind plays a role in concert with the amount of coffee used,
and a simple one at that. Finer grinds extract more quickly
than coarser grinds but they almost always increase brewing
time by clogging whatever filtering system is in use. In
espresso, a grind of perfectly calibrated fineness allows the
brewing espresso to escape from the machine at just the right
speed. In regular brewing systems, however, a fine grind
raises a barrier to expeditious brewing and filtering, and
it's usually not a challenge which betters the coffee. Again,
rather than accepting the recommendations of anyone, the
strength at which coffee is brewed is first and foremost a
personal preference.
3.OVEREXTRACTION
Most home drip coffeemakers produce a full pot of coffee in
ten or more minutes. It takes them this long because they
start with cold water in their reservoirs and the amount of
electricity coming out of a standard wall socket can't heat a
pot full of water any faster. The problem is that by the time
the brewing process is over, the grounds are grossly
over-extracted, producing a bitter, woody tasting brew. An
inelegant solution to this problem is to turn off your coffee
maker after four or five minutes, remove the filter cone, dump
the coffee and the filter, rinse the cone of any loose
grounds, replace it in the brewer and turn the machine back
on, allowing it to finish spurting the water through its
heating element. This extra effort will produce noticeably
better coffee. (Commercial drip or pour-over coffee makers do
this automatically with a bypass or a shunt which directs the
water around the grounds after a specified amount of time.)
4.THE
"HOLDING" FACTOR.
Once brewed, coffee is a reacting amalgam of mineral salts,
organic acids and sugars which are dissolved in the water. In
addition, aromatic oils, which do not dissolve in water, are
suspended in the hot coffee in microscopic droplets. This
whole mixture is unstable and changes quickly, even under the
best circumstances. For excellent coffee, the best approach is
to brew only what you plan to pour when the brewing is done.
Failing that, don't expect a cup poured fifteen minutes later
to taste the same, no matter whether an insulated pot, or one
with a calibrated thermostat is used (although either of these
offers a better alternative than the more unusual standard
hotplate).
5.BAD
WATER.
If the water you use to make coffee tastes bad, coffee won't
cover it up, you'll just get bad tasting coffee. The water you
use should be sweet tasting and minerally balanced, not
distilled. One of the best ways to brew coffee is with a
plunger pot. Plunger pots are sometimes referred to as "french
presses," or by one of their various brand names or by
the French term for the coffee made in them, "caffe
filter." These pots are tall, cylindrically shaped glass
pots and come equipped with stainless steel and nylon filters
which are the same diameter as the inside of the pot. These
filters are attached at the center to a long metal rod which
goes through the center of the pot's lid. When the lid is
placed on the pot, the rod is pressed and the close-fitting
filter is forced to the bottom of the pot. To brew caffe
filter, the filter is pulled out and the lid is removed, the
desired amount of freshly (and coarsely) ground coffee is
added to the pot and boiling water is poured in. It is best to
stir the coffee and water so as to disrupt any pockets of dry
coffee which may hide in the bottom. After four minutes or so
place the thoroughly cleaned lid/plunger on the pot and press
the plunger down. The filter will slowly allow itself to be
pressed to the bottom of the pot and thereby take all the
coffee grounds with it. The resulting brew should be poured
immediately so as to avoid letting the grounds overheat, thus
making the coffee bitter. Plunger pots make coffee that is
dense and murky. This is because their filters allow more
dissolved oils and fine particulate matter to pass through.
The resulting coffee is heavier in body and more complex in
aroma and flavor.
Another
good, easy way to make great coffee is with a kettle, a filter
cone, matching paper filter and a pot, either plain glass or
insulated. Of critical importance here is to use the largest
filter cone so you can use a generous amount of coffee, and to
pour the water through quickly rather than dribbling it
through. If your grind is too fine it will clog the paper
filter and extend the brewing time. Also, some plastic filter
cones don't allow the coffee to pass through quickly enough.
Feel free to enlarge the holes slightly in whatever safe and
sensible manner you can devise. (Twelve-inch chef's knives and
firearms of any caliber are NOT recommended.)
Some coffee
experts claim that paper filters contribute undesirable tastes
to the coffee. You might try pouring a little boiling water
through the filter and cone first, throwing this rinse water
away and then beginning the brewing process. Most people,
however, do not notice when this is done, especially when the
coffee is made strong enough so that it can be tasted. If you
strongly object to paper filters you can seek out a permanent
"gold filter." These filters use a fine-plated gold
mesh which is made in the same way the foils for electric
razors are produced. The metal mesh is mounted in plastic and
these filters come in various shapes and sizes, allowing them
to be used in most plastic filter cones.
Finally, you could just try "cowboy coffee." Put the
desired amount of freshly ground, freshly roasted coffee in a
tall pot. Pour freshly boiled water on top and let steep for
two to three minutes. Stir the grounds which have formed a
crust into the brew and after another minute skim the foam and
any grounds from the top with a large spoon. Slowly and gently
pour the coffee into cups or a thermos, being careful not to
disturb the grounds. The coffee at the bottom, close to the
grounds, will contribute to the dreaded over-extracted flavors
you want to avoid. There is no filter here and the coffee
tastes rich, clean and pure; the brew is just a little murky
when compared to paper-filtered coffee, but a small price to
pay for a great cup.
Sometimes the simple things are the best.
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