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A bountiful land lays the foundations of a great
gastronomical country. in Thailand, the pearly white rice is
produced in abundance and remains the yardstick by which well
being is measured. The government has set up an efficient
irrigation network which gives a second harvest in most
areas. Moreover, among the many varieties of rice, Thailand
boasts a fine, long grain type, called "khao hom mali",
so delicious that it can become a meal in itself. The produce
of the sea and rivers comes only second i n importance to
rice, as a saying goes "There is rice in the fields and
fish in the water". It sums up how the Thais appreciate
their natural good fortune, Stroll in any open air market and you encounter
an infinite array of sea and river fish, as well
a s all sorts of shellfish including prawns, shrimp, crab,
squid, mussels, cockles and perhaps a few unknown shellfish.
There, too, your eyes will be attracted by a wide variety
of the freshest of vegetables. Some are unknown to westerners;
for example, lotus stems. Others may be slightly familiar,
such as bamboo shoots and bean sprouts, available in some
large cities. Still others are very familiar indeed, such as
the crispest of lettuce, pure white cauliflower and yellow
pumpkins. These grow on the fertile land around Bangkok, as
well as on the high semi mountainous slopes in the northern part
of Thailand, where new varieties are introduced frequently.
Meat is not nearly so popular as
seafood particularly in
the southern part of the country, with its enormous catches
from the surrounding waters. Thais almost never eat a piece of
plain meat, such as a steak or roast beef, although these are
readily obtainable in every hotel. Pork is surely the most
popular meat, followed closely by beef; the meat is typically
cut into slices and combined with rice or vegetables. More and
more, Thailand is turning towards beef, and prize cattle can
be seen grazing on the high slopes of the north and northeast
of the country. Lamp and veal are seldom seen in Thai
restaurants, but may be found in western places.
With its more or less even warm weather, Thailand has three
seasons, rather than the usual four. As a result, there is an
enormous selection of tropical fruits available all year
round, although certain fruits, of course, have their
particular season. Some of the most interesting ones include
mangos, durians, longans, rambutans, mangos teens, and guavas.
Although many of these are unknown to most tourists, be
certain to order some fresh fruit as a dessert at the end of a
Thai dinner. Although some of these fruits are occasionally
shipped to the west, to taste them on the spot, during the
right season, is one of the highlights of a trip to this
country.
EATING YESTERDAY AND TODAY
A modern traveler might find quite a number of changes in the
table manners and in the preparation of Thai dishes, which are
mostly due to increasing foreign influence since the reign of
King Rana IV. In the old days, Thai meals were often simple
and consisted generally of rice accompanied by two or three
side dishes. The food, lightly cooked, remained crunchy, with
all the nutritional value and original flavor intact.
Moreover, it was served in measured quantities, prepared with
very little fat, with an emphasis upon seafood rather than
meat Thai food could therefore claim to be the forerunner of
"nouvelle cuisine," which theoretically is lower in
calories. Gradually, however, people to cook with spices and
flavors, and ultimately as the centuries passed, became an extremely
sophisticated cuisine.
HOW THAI FOOD WAS SERVED
There was rarely any formal protocol at meal times, and eating
was delightful for its simplicity. Heavy etiquette-bound
entertaining so frequent in the West, was unknown. Tables and
chairs were absent and everyone gathered around a mat on the
floor. Th e men sat cross-legged, the women with their legs
tucked behind them, so that feet were always pointing away from
the group. Plates, bowls, forks and spoons were placed at
random. Because the food is cut in the kitchen, knives are
seldom served. Today in some informal Thai restaurants,
silverware is placed in a large container on each table. No
chopsticks are used in eating (except in Chinese restaurants
of course), although for some reason, Thai restaurants in
western countries affer them; but it is not authentic. The
dishes arrive in any order at all often all at once. Dishes
are shared.
Nowadays, well-to-do Bangkokians would not dream of eating
on the floor. Tables, chairs and even knives are in. There are
many more new dishes and new ways of cooking. In the old days,
food was grilled on a wood fire or boiled in a clay pot. Today
the Thais use more and more gas or electric stoves and ovens,
in addition to charcoal stoves.
Food can therefore be bakes or barbecued broiled or boiled,
fried or sautéed dried or steamed.
COOKING AS AN ART
Thai cooking can be readily envisioned as a work of art. The
people have a natural and creative sense of beauty, and
express it in many ways. Both men and women learn to create
beautifully shaped fruits and vegetables, carving them with
all of the skill of a talented artisan. It brings to mind the
expert precision with which craftsmen cut and polish rough
stones.
There seems to be no end to the forms and shapes in which
fruits and vegetables are carved, all intended to delight the
eye of the diner. When lovely dishes are served on china
plates, they are reminiscent of large pieces of jewelry,
embellished with eamel and patterned with floral designs.
THE THAI ART OF SEASONING
As previously mentioned, the appeal of much of the Thai
cuisine owes much of the spices, herbs and seasonings grown
under the brilliant skies of Thailand. Also, in some cases,
they were brought from China, India and Java, but the final
art of the country 's cuisine comes from the skill and
sophistication of Thai cooks and chefs.
Some visitors have heard, erroneously in point of fact,
that all Thai food is hot, hotter, or extremely hot. Although
some Thai dishes are quite spicy, far more dishes are
completely mild, and require no adjustment whatsoever. Much of
the heat of the spicy dishes comes from red or green peppers,
commonly referred to as chles. The Thais call them "phrik"
and have many amusing names for the hottest of them. There are
no less than a dozen of these, ranging from quite mild, almost
innocuous, all the way to sparingly strong and burning.
However, important as they are,
chilies constitute only one
of the many ingredients combined to give a unique blend of
flavors. When properly used, they should never overshadow the
delicate citron taste of the lemon grass (a common ingredient
in Thai coo king), or the somewhat different kariff lime, or
the elusive flavor of turmeric. Moreover, each cook will vary
the recipe according to taste, and the blending will differ
from one cook to another, and from one province to another.
These ingredients come in different forms; rhizomes (much
like plant bulbs) for ginger, leaves for coriander, stalks for
bamboo shoots, and seeds for sesame, and so forth. The use of
coriander ground with garlic and peppercorns is, for example,
a typical flavoring combination. Various garden produce is
used to enhance the taste of many dishes. Limes are squeezed
on salads, soups and curries, where coconut milk is used in
soups and meat and fish preparations.
A wide range of dried spices, such as cumin,
nutmeg cloves
or bay-leaf are always found in Thai kitchens. The proper use
of these ingredients, together with others, is regarded as
culinary art in Thailand. Many herbs and spices may be
purchased in western countries, but many, where fresh leaves
are necessary, are not quite the same. This perhaps may
explain why even an excellent Thai dinner in one's country can
never match the exciting experience of a perfectly-prepared
meal in Thailand. For any fine cuisine, there is apparently
nothing like home.
COOKING SKILLS
Another skill lies in the selection and preparation of the
ingredients. Thai cooks are expert in the handling of cutting
tools and are unbeatable in the art of slicing, cutting and
carving vegetables, fruits and meat. An unwritten rule
requires that eac h morsel of meat and fish, when eaten with
half a spoonful of rice, makes just one mouthful. The origin
of this rule lies in the absence of knives, a symbol of
aggression, at meal times. Well- sharpened knives are
obviously vital to the Thai cook, as we ll as the pestle and
mortar used for pounding and crushing the spices and other
herbs. Most of the cooking is done in a "wok" or
"katha", a deep cone-shaped pan, placed over gas or
charcoal.
FRUIT CARVING
Thai food becomes a form of art, particularly in the
preparation and presentation of fresh fruits, and fruit-based
desserts. As much skill as the preparer can muster is placed
in the appearance of all fruits, often being carved into the
shape of flowers. These skills are an art form passed from
mother to daughter, and this has been true for many centuries.
The result is fruit, carved to perfection, and intended to
make it more appealing; sometimes the fruit is carved to make
it easier to eat. The peeling itself requires so much care
that a special bronze knife with a very thin blade has been
devised. Some fruits are totally peeled and cut in segments,
with the seeds removed. Many fruits are artistically carved
into a seemingly endless variety of shapes and forms, in
addition to flowers, such as leaves, wheels, stars and the
like.
EATING THAI : A NEVER ENDING PLEASURE
Thai food comes in many forms-soups and curries, relishes and
salads, dips or sauces, fries meat or fish.
For a quick meal, villagers enjoy lightly-cooked or even
raw vegetables served with namphrik, a chili and fish sauce,
typically served with fish. Such dishes are easy to prepare
because ingredients are never far away; vegetables come from
the garden, an d fish are plentiful in the nearby rivers. In
larger communities, when breakfast is not eaten at home, it is
often bought from roadside stands and outdoor snack
restaurants. Lunch is typically a quick affair of noodles with
meat or vegetables, kuai thia o, or dish of rice and curried
foods. Dinner is usually eaten at home with the family
gathered about.
Special evenings may be spent in one of the huge open-air
restaurants, lively and diverting, perhaps a trifle noisy, but
with delicious food. Dish after dish accumulates on the table,
accompanied by plenty of local beer, soft drinks or whisky.
One restaurant which covers several acres even has waiters on
silent roller skates.
SOUP CAN BE FULL MEAL
A Thai meal is not regarded as complete without soup. In fact,
soup is eaten from dawn to dusk. Pavements are crowded with
soup stalls, and boats meander along canals and the river,
dispensing soups to eager patrons. Soups are generally served throughout the meal; the diners frequently take a spoon or
two of soup to refresh their palates.
There are three main types of Thai soups. KAENG CHUT
is a mild Chinese-style broth with meat and vegetables. As it
is gentle to the taste, it makes a pleasant contrast to
spicier dishes. Thai sometimes vary the flavor by adding
coriander, but it is a matter of personal taste.
KHAO TOM, a clear rice soup, is a sort of universal
healer, comparable to chicken soup in the western cuisine. It
is a favorite morning-after remedy for those with hangovers or
upset stomachs. It is claimed that this soup can cure fevers,
colds a nd just about anything else; it helps to believe in
its curative powers. The rice is well-cooked in a large
quantity of water. Before serving, it may be seasoned with nampla, vinegar and
chilies, accordingly to the preparer's taste,
and typically has b its of meat or poultry added.
The queen (possibly the king) of all Thai soups is surely TOM
YAM KUNG, a delicious shrimp soup, flavored by lemon
grass, kaffir lime leaves, shallots, chilies, and coriander
leaves, finished off with a fish sauce and lemon juice. This
appealing so up is sometimes served in a charcoal-heated bowl;
it continues to simmer during the meal. No other soup can be
compared to this delicious preparation, a combination of spice
and fresh ingredients, with an extraordinarily subtle taste.
OTHER REGIONAL DELICACIES
Chicken is extremely popular, more so than duck or goose,
possibly because it is so plentiful. Because chicken is
naturally smooth to the palate and quite bland, it goes well
with a variety of Thai spices and sauces. From central
Thailand, a favorite preparation is green chicken curry,
typically served with an egg, plus a side dish of yam, a
generic term for salads. Salads are particularly refreshing in
the warm climate, and people tend to nibbler on them when
eating spicy dishes, as a contrasting taste and texture. Thai
salads may contain fruit, meat, shrimp and squid, making them
quite unusual to those who anticipate only salad greens. The
most common dressings include lemon juice, chilies, fish sauce
and shallots. Oil is not used in Thai salads. From the
northeastern part of the country comes SOM TAM, made
with green (unripe) papaya, mixed with sliced tomatoes,
chopped garlic and chilies, to which are added finely pounded
dried shrimp, plus lemon juice. It is best when served with
sticky rice and salted beef; the meat is prepared by seasoning
it with pepper, then marinating it in garlic and soy sauce,
and drying it in the sun for a few hours.
Vegetables play an important part in the Thai cuisine; they
grow well in this climate and are almost always available.
According to local tradition, the best way to sample them is
the simplest, and it comes from the northern part of the
country. Vegetables are cut into pieces or slices shile raw,
or only slightly cooked, and dipped into NAM PHRIK ONG,
a thick sauce made of tomatoes, ground pork, garlic and chili,
plus soy sauce and a tiny dash of sugar.
In the south of Thailand, there is an entire range of
curries, prepared with all sorts of green, yellow or red curry
pastes. But beware! In this part of the country, hot curries
can be really burning, so it's best to choose a milder curry,
the type made with coconut cream. Another favorite preparation
of this region is fried fish, covered with a mixture of herbs
and spices, then deep-fried and served with an aromatic sauce.
THAI DESSERTS AND FRUITS
In as much as Thailand does not place much emphasis upon wheat
or corn, there is little in the way of cakes or tarts,
although these are always available in western-style dining
rooms. A typical meal concludes with fresh fruit, beautifully
carved as previously mentioned, or alternatively of desserts
chiefly based upon fruits.
Once peeled and unseeded, fruits can also be served with
ingredients that enhance their sweetness: sugar syrup or a
mixture of coconut sugar, salt and chili. A wonderfully
refreshing way of serving fruits as a dessert, is LOI KAEO
or cool float. Fruits are cut in pieces, served in a syrup
with crushed ice, scented with rose petals or jasmine flowers.
Owing to the abundance of fruit harvest, many fruits are
preserved in salt water or in a syrup.
The mango appears to be one of the most versatile of all
fruits. When under ripe and somewhat firm, slices of
"green" mango, dipped in salted water, becomes an
appetizing sort of pickle or relish. Cooked in a sugar syrup,
it becomes almost candy like, with a delicious flavor. Dried in
the sun, it turns golden brown, and is an excellent sweet
snack. When ripe, the mango reaches ots peak of perfection,
mellow and aromatic. It is particularly good served on
glutinous rice topped with thick, rich coconut cream.
The banana, popular in all parts of the world is eaten out
of hand, as the expression goes, but the sizes and varying
colors of Thai bananas is sure to come as something of a
surprise. While still unripe, slices are seasoned with sugar
and salt, then fried crisp, to become KLUAI CHAP. When
ripe, the fruit can be made into a wide assortment of
desserts. KLUAI PING is grilled banana, soaked in a thick
syrup; KLUAI BUAT CHI is a dessert made of pieces of
banana boiled in coconut milk and fla vored with sugar and a
dash of salt. KLUAI KHAEK, often seen in sidewalk food
stalls, is simply another version of banana fritters.
The use of bananas does not stop there. The leaves are
converted into wrappings for food, and in the countryside,
meals are often transported in banana leaves. The flowers are
cut into some salads, and occasionally added to soups.
THAILAND'S CONTINUOUS SEASONS OF FRUIT
>From January of April, grapes, jackfruit, java apples,
tangerines, watermelons and pomegranates are at their best.
Next come mangos, litchis (also spelled leeches), pineapple, mangos teens
and durians. Just a few thoughts about durians:
they are a sort o f large melon with the most delicious taste
imaginable. Unfortunately, as the melon is cut, it emits a
rather strong aroma.
>From July on, longans ripen,and also langsats, jujubes,
passion fruit, pomelo, rambutan, and sugar apples. During the
entire year, bananas, coconuts, guavas and papayas are always
available.
In some communities, particularly in rural areas, as a
particular fruit comes into the height of its season, there
are elaborate festivals, usually featured by local beauty
queens. In early April, the Paet Riu Mango Festival is held in
the small town of Chacheongsao. Then in May, Songkhla holds a
special fruit bazzar, with elaborate demonstrations of fruit
carving, plus a Miss Southern Thailand beauty pageant. In
June, Chanthaburi shows off an assortment of fruit raised in
the province; the feature is th e durian, with its exquisite
taste and foul smell, as mentioned before. In September, to
honor the pomelo, a fruit and floral procession, consisting of
elaborate floats, is held in Nakhon Pathom, near Bangkok. The
pomelo is much like grapefruit, but some what sweet, and
segments readily.
A RAINBOW OF SWEETS.
Although most Thai desserts are based upon fruits, there are
some interesting exceptions. One thread that holds them
together is color, and combinations of shades and hues. This
may be noted quite easily by walking past sidewalk vendors
specializing in sweet and desserts. There is the saffron
color of "thong yip", or the opalescent pinks, blues
and greens seen in the "wun", or agar cakes, made
with gelatin.
Some of the colorful desserts include flavored crushed ice,
sweetened water chestnuts, coconut meat combined with milk,
gelatin strips, palm sugar cooked with egg yolks. Some sweet
preparations, such as "foi thong", are like golden
hairs, and are quite sugary. Others, like "ruam mit",
are served in a bowl of crushed ice with thick syrup, and are
very refreshing. Some are miniaturized reproductions of
various fruits, and are almost works of art.
DINING OUT
Formerly, Thais used to eat mostly at home. Women were mainly
involved in the household chores and cooking meals, even
elaborate ones, was never a problem.
Today more and more women are working outside. Moreover, a
growing number of farmers come to the big city in the hope of
finding a job. They are usually single and have no way to
cook. It is more practical to eat outside or buy the meal on
the sidewalk. T he number of eating-places has multiplied and,
at night, Bangkok has become an incredibly huge open-air restaurant.
As a matter of fact, Thais seem to eat out all the time and
everywhere. A favorite past-time for them is "pai thiao",
an aimless stroll from one place to another, to see what's
going on. Unlike most westerners, the average Thai goes not
seem to need a particular purpose. He is never happier than
in a crowd where he gets a feeling of companionship and of
belonging.
While drifting around, he might sample some tasty
sweetmeats and will probably take some home since Thais like
nothing better than a spontaneous and casual meal.
Near commercial districts and entertainment areas, you will
find countless stalls and makeshift counters where charcoal
burners are used for steaming and barbecuing. These
kitchenettes on wheels are now and then surrounded by tables
and chairs and dimly lighted by a single electric bulb or a
kerosene lamp.
These places are quite cheap, surprisingly clean and
absolutely worth a try. A treat in the street would not cost
more than 200 bahts. A handy choice might be one of many
coffee shops in town. Usually spic and span and giving forth
wonderful aromas of cakes and other sweets, they serve Thai
and international meals.
Food parks are one of the most colorful of Thai food
experiences. They are generally located in a large shopping
mall, and can cover an entire floor. Countless restaurants offer just about every imaginable type of Asian cuisine. The
procedure involves bu ying a coupon and then sitting at any
available table. Huge color pictures of the dishes available
assist in making your choice.
Open air restaurants in gardens, or along the banks of the
river, are perhaps unique to Thailand. In the evening,
thousands of people dine in this delightful al fresco
surroundings. The menu is large and incidentally, there is
always a translation in English. Although busy and lively,
the service is inevitably surprisingly prompt. It has the
additional pleasure of being quite inexpensive, and the
quality of food served is usually excellent.
For an offbeat evening, reserve a table on the boat
cruising the river. A soft breeze, the fragile glow of
candlelight, and gentle music can induce the proper mood for a
romantic dinner. Also try the seafood restaurants. You can
pick up your choice, when entering , from a fantastic array of
fresh seafood. They will be charcoal grilled or boiled on the
spot and brought proudly to your table. These places boast a
fine selection of both local and imported wine.
Some restaurants which are tourist oriented, present a
selection of Thai classical and folk dances. You sit in the
traditional way around a low table. The restaurant might be a
copy of an old Thai house, all teak floor and paneling, with
beautiful painting and precious china.
If you prefer to have some western-style meals, they are
always available at all the hotels. You can find French,
Italian, American, Japanese, Hungarian, Russian and especially
Chinese restaurants. Some large hotels have a half frozen different
restaurants, and one has as many as ten. Or you may
prefer to explore and find a small bistro, tucked away on a
side street, but always charming and cozy. Look for a small
"soi" (pronounced soy), which is the Thai word for
street.
Most eating-places nowadays have good hygienic standards.
Nevertheless, in its efforts to improve the quality of of Thai
restaurants, the Tourism Authority of Thailand has developed a
symbol of excellence in every restaurant it recommends.
Patrons of these establishments can be assured that food and
services are of the highest quality. A list of these restaurant
is available by the Authority.
In Bangkok alone, there are no less than five cooking
schools, all available for interested visitors. Travel
agencies have begun to arrange gourmet tours, which include
sampling some of the best Thai dishes in different restaurants.
They also take tourist s on trips to the various food markets,
which are inevitably rewarding experiences.
Thai food is a many-splendored thing. It combines pleasing
subtleties - the soft and crunchy, sweet and sour, bitter and
mellow, spicy to sweet, and hot to cool. Unlike western
cuisines, which tend towards individual portions, Thai food,
like that of Chin a, is best when shared.
Eating Thai style is an experience in sharing, a part of
the "sanuk" way of life, the joy of living. This
determination to enjoy every facet of life requires the
feeling of well-being that the Thai call "sabai".
You will enjoy the food and atmosphere, and be touched by the
hospitality of the Thai people.
INGREDIENTS
Spices, herbs and seasonings are inextricably linked
with the history and food of Asia. Rhizomes, stalks, seeds or
leaves, they should be used as fresh as possible to enjoy the
rich flavours at their best. Some are available fresh in Asian
shops around the world. Some, like basil, coriander and even
chili or lemon grass can be cultivated under shelter in a
garden or on a balcony. Others - turmeric, cardamom and
galangal - may have to be purchased dried or in powder form.
In this case the quantities given in these recipes should be
halved.
Thai cooking depends very much on individual cooks varying
the proportions of the different seasonings according to
personal preferences. Occasionally certain ingredients, for
example basil leaves, are given in only cup measures. This
means that no exact amount is required - the cup is just a
flexible guideline - and although an American measuring cup
would be ideal, any medium-sized tea cup would do. This is
rather like measuring rice by the handful - a very common
habit in Asia. Where exact quantities are required, metric,
Imperial and cup equivalents are given.
All the recipes serve 4-6 people although naturally this
depends on how many other dishes are served at the same meal.
We assume that rice and at least two other dishes will be
served together.
Spicy dishes require less meat or fish than mild ones
because extra rice is consumed with them to compensate for the
spiciness.
BAMBOO SHOOTS(Nor mai):
The shoots of the bamboo are cut when they have grown about
15 cm (6 inches) above the ground. They need to be peeled and
the inner, white part boiled for 30 minutes in water. However,
the canned variety needs to be boiled for only 10 minutes and
may be used immediately in soups or curries. Canned bamboo
shoots, once fridge, if the water is renewed every day.
BASIL AND HOLY BASIL(Horapha):
Hindus believe that basil is sacred and they like to plant
it in religious sanctuaries. The variety of basil they use is
called holy basil and it has a spicy flavor. This is more
difficult to find in the West than sweet basil, but pepper or
finely chopped chili can be added to the sweet variety to
compensate.
Both types of basil are used a lot in Thai cooking. Basil
is also used for medicinal purposes, to treat indigestion and
to stimulate the appetite.
BEANCURD(Tao Hou):
This is a soya bean extract to which a setting agent has
been added. Soft bean curd is white, and is used extensively in
Chinese dishes. It is available in most oriental shops, and is
usually sold in pieces 7.5 cm (3 inches) square. Hard, or dry,
bean curd is made by compressing soft bean curd. Bean curd is
available in many other forms - fried, fermented, etc.
BEANSPROUTS(Thua ngok):
The sprouts of the soya or mung bean are crunchy and
tender. They can be grown at home, but they are easy to find
in most places nowadays. The canned variety are not a very
good substitute but bean sprouts can be replaced by other fresh
vegetables, finely sliced, if necessary.
BERGAMOT(Makroud):
Also known as kaffir lime, this plant is found everywhere
in Thailand and people often grow it at home.
The leaves have a delicate flavor, slightly lemony, which
goes equally well with curries and seafood dishes. The fruit
has a bumpy dark green rind with a concentration of aromatic
oils and the aroma of lemon. Sometimes the juice of this fruit
is used in Thai dishes instead of lime, or vice versa. The
skin is also used in many Thai dishes, especially curries, and
can be replaced by grated lime skin if necessary.
CARDAMOM(Krawan):
The queen of spics, cardamom has been used since ancient
times. Produced mostly in India and Sri Lanka, it also grows
in southeastern Thailand near Cambodia. Cardamom needs a humid
climate to grow, and deforestation is endangering its
survival. The aromatic pods can be green, white or black and
they all contain a number of small seeds. The pods and seeds
are used in different types of sweet or savory Thai dishes,
especially in curries.
Europeans have known Siamese cardamom since the 17th
Century. It was one of the first spices exported to England,
China and Japan.
Medicinally, cardamom can be used as a laxative and to
relieve flatulence. In addition, cardamom is mixed with ginger
and boiled, as a health drink.
Powdered cardamom is readily available but it is better to
grind your own freshly if possible.
CELERY(Khuen chai):
The celery is much smaller than the variety found in the
West. It is also greener, thinner-stemmed and more leafy, with
a stronger celery flavor. However, either type can be used
equally well for Thai soups, sautés and salads.
Young celery leaves make an attractive garnish which
enhances the flavor of the food at the same time.
CHILIES(Prik):
Chauca, personal physician of Christopher
Columbus, wrote
that the Portuguese brought chilies from the West Indies to
India and Africa in 1585.
The Thais add generous amounts of chilies to most of their
dishes. No one region is known as the home of fiery food, as
each province has its own "hot" dishes. Many
different varieties of chili are used in Thailand but the most
common is 7.5-10 cm (3-4 inches) long and can be red, green or
yellow when fresh. Dried, it is red. Another popular chili in
Thai cooking is tiny, green and extremely fiery. The seeds are
the hottest part of the chili so if you want ot keep the flavor, with out the heat, slit open the chilies and discard
the seeds. Dried chilies should be soaked in hot water for 10
minutes before grinding. The Thai use chilies in almost every
conceivable way - fresh, dried, whole, chopped, crushed or
sliced into rings. Just a few words of caution, always wash
your hands carefully after handling chilies and do not touch
your eyes or mouth, or they will suffer from a burning
sensation.
Apart from the favor they impart, chilies are also good
for the health. Followers of Thai traditional medicine believe
that chilies help get rid of flatulence and stomach cramps.
This is now thought to be because chilies can kill bacteria in
the stomach and intestinal tract. Chili in the stomach
produces increased levels of blood circulation in the stomach
lining. This helps to increase the rate of digestion. Blood
pressure also rises as the heart beats faster. Thais also
believe that those who sweat profusely after eating chilies
are ridding themselves of toxic substances in the body.
CHILI PASTES (Nam prik phao):
These can be bought in bottles from
Asian stores. A
particularly popular one in Thai cooking, especially for
seafood dishes, is burnt mild chili paste.
CHINESE MUSHROOMS(Hed hom):
These dried, whole mushrooms have a distinctive
flavor.
They should always be soaked in warm water for 30 minutes
before being added to other ingredients. The stems are seldom
eaten as they are quite tough.
Chinese mushrooms are extremely rich in calcium, phosphorus
and potassium. Protein is especially high in dried mushrooms.
Medicinally, Chinese mushrooms have been shown to reduce
cholesterol levels in the blood. Some scientific research even
suggests that these mushrooms have anti-viral and anti-tumor
properties.
They are sold in most oriental food stores around the
world.
CINNAMON(Ob cheuy):
In southern Asia, there are many varieties of cinnamon, the
dried, aromatic bark of a member of the laurel family. In
Thailand the "batavia" variety is commonly used to
give a pleasant aroma to beef and chicken dishes.
Medicinally, Thais believe that it is an anti-acid and that
it can reduce any overproduction of a nursing mother's milk.
Cinnamon can be found in powder form or in bark sticks. The
bark retains its flavour for longer.
CLOVES(Kan plou):
Marco Polo thought that cloves came from Java, but Conti
discovered that they actually originated from the Malaccan Islands. From there the use of cloves spread to other parts of
Southeast Asia and to Europe.
They are the dried flower buds of a member of the myrtle
family and can be used whole or in powder form.
In Thai cuisine, cloves are added to curries and they also
go very well with salty vegetables and ham. In
Thailand, cloves have traditionally been chewed with betel
leaves.
Medicinally, Thais believe that cloves kill bacteria and
also act as an antispasmodic. Cloves can be chewed after meals
, as some Thais do, to aid digestion.
COCONUT MILK AND CREAM(Kathi):
These two important ingredients are used in curries as well
as in desserts and beverages. Coconut mild is the liquid squeezed
from the grated flesh of mature coconut after the flesh has
been soaked in lukewarm water. Coconut cream is a richer
version. For coconut mild use 3 cups grated coconut to 5 cups
water; fo coconut cream use 3 cups coconut for 2 1/2 cups
water. Soak the coconut in the water for 15 minutes. Mix well
with your hands, then tip into a muslin-lined strainer placed
over a bowl. Squeeze all the liquid out of the muslin. The
operation can be repeated with the already-squeeze coconut to
produce thinner coconut mild which is acceptable in soups. All
this is very time-consuming, and removing the flesh from a
coconut is very difficult without the right implements.
Luckily, ready-made coconut mild is available in cans in most
places around the world. Stir the contents if coconut mild is
required or scoop the cream off the top if you need coconut
cream. Creamed coconut, frozen grated coconut and frozen
coconut milk are also generally obtainable. However, if
coconut is totally unavailable, then boiled milk may be used
as a substitute.
Remember that coconut mild is not the liquid which is found
inside a fresh young coconut. That water is only used in mixed
tropical drinks, never in cooking, and has none of the
properties of coconut milk.
CORIANDER(Phakchee):
This member of the carrot family has delicate leaves and
deep roots. When the plant reaches maturity, it produces
abundant white flowers. The leaves and seeds are used in many
cuisines throughout the world, but Thai cooking makes use of
the roots as well.
The round, beige seeds are added to curries and vegetables.
The roots are crushed with garlic to flavor meat and are
often added to soups, especially beef soups. The leaves are
used extensively as a garnish.
CUMMIN(Yira):
Only the seeds are used, dried and ground. In Thai cuisine,
cumin is used in sauces and on grilled meats. Cumin can be
purchased already ground, but the whole seeds keep their flavor
better and they are easy to grind at home.
DRIED LETTUCE LEAVES(Tang chai):
These are small salted shrimp dried in the sun. They are
generally sold in powder form in bottles in most Asian stores.
PERMENTED SOYA BEANS(Tao jiaw):
Whole fermented yellow or black
Soya beans may be labeled "Dow See" in oriental stores. They are sold in
bottles and the English label probably says "Yellow Bean
Sauce". Fermented Soya beans are nutritious, strongly flavored
and salty. They replace salt completely in some Thai
dishes.
FISH SAUCE(Nam pla):
This thin, salty, pale brown sauce is made by filtering off
the liquid from fermenting salted fish. Rich in the B vitamins
and protein, it makes an excellent salt substitute. To be a
good Thai cook, always have a bottle of fish sauce ready to
add to Thai food.
As well as being used in cooking, it can be served as a
sauce alone or mixed with lime and chili. You can use it and
your imagination to create more elaborate sauces, as the Thais
do.
Fish sauce is an exclusively Southeast Asian product.
Thailand's superb sauce is well known and sold in Southeast
Asian shops around the world.
GALANGAL(Kha):
Both greater and lesser galangal are related to ginger. In
Thailand greater galangal is most commonly used; its aroma is
subtler than that of lesser galangal and its inside is milky
white. You often find it in curries and soups. It is used
fresh in Asia, but elsewhere it may have to be purchased
dried. In this case, soak the root in hot water for 1 hour
before use and remove it before serving. Powdered galangal is
also available.
Medicinally, galangal is classed as a digestive stimulant
and Thais mix the grated root with lime juice to treat
stomachache. Thais also believe that galangal can help
respiratory ailments.
GARLIC(Krathiem):
This member of the lily family is thought to originate from
Asia. The Thai garlic head is made up of smaller cloves than
the Western varieties. It is used abundantly in Thai cuisine.
Garlic contains significant amounts of vitamin C, calcium
and protein. It is also rich in potassium, phosphorus, iron
and zinc.
Medicinally, it is believed that garlic can reduce blood
pressure and cleanse the blood of excess glucose. It is also
said to alleviate 'flu, sor throats and bronchial congestion.
GINGER(Khing):
Native to India and China, ginger has been used medicinally
for centuries. It was taken to Rome by caravans through Asia
Minor. Ginger was probably one of the first Asian spices to
reach Europe and it has been in use there since the Middle
Ages.
The aromatic rhiaome of the ginger plant is an important
ingredient of Thai main dishes and desserts. It must be peeled
before it can be chopped, grated or crushed. Fresh ginger is
preferable, but powdered ginger can be substituted if
necessary.
LEMON GRASS(Takrai):
This is one of the most common herbs in Thai food. It has
long, lemony-smelling blades but only the lower part, which is
white and bulbous, is used. It gives a unique flavor to
curries and soups. A stalk of lemon grass is round and close
packed like that of a very small leek.
Where fresh lemon grass is unavailable, dried stems (which
should be removed before serving) or powdered lemon grass may
be used. Also, thinly pared lemon peel is an acceptable
substitute.
In tradition Thai medicine, lemon grass has long been used
to treat colds and stomachaches. Also, it can be used to treat
gallstones by drinking the water in which this herb has been
boiled.
MINT(Bai saranae):
Leaves of the spearmint variety are often used in Thai
salads, fish dishes and soups. Sweet basil leaves can be used
as a substitute if necessary.
NOODLES
Chinese noodles may confuse you slightly Basic
techniques are:
Having introduced the ingredients of Thai cooking, we are
now moving on to the "basics" of the cuisine. By
this we mean recipes of items which are prepared in advance,
to be used later in or with other dishes. The practice of
having a bank of frequently used essentials is quite common in
Asia - a kind of time-saving two-stage cuisine. Thai cooks
would keep a constant stock of some of these basics; other
items would be prepared specifically for a particular meal,
but well before the rest of the dishes, ready to be
incorporated or used as a garnish or accompaniment when
required.
Vegetable preparation
In Thailand we prefer our ingredients prepared in as
delicate a way as possible. So think small. Vegetables cut
finely cook quickly and thus retain the maximum amount of
their essential goodness. Garlic, shallots, ginger, chilies,
etc., are very finely sliced, slivered or chopped. Hard
vegetables, e.g. carrots and potatoes, are cut or sliced in
small pieces ; green vegetables such as broccoli are cut into
small florets.
Stir-frying
If you have ever cooked a Chinese meal you will be familiar
with this method of cooking. It is simple and fast, but
requires your constant attention. As its name implies,
ingredients are stirred while being cooked: the stirring is ,
in fact, more a matter of turning the ingredients in the
cooking oil or liquid to ensure that they are exposed to the
heated medium. It is best achieved in a long-handed work over
high heat since you can manipulate the cooking vessel over the
heat source. It is very fast and vegetables should be cooked
in this manner only for a few seconds. They should remain
crisp and bright-colored.
Steaming
Many dishes are steamed and a large steamer is a good
investment. Steaming is timed from the moment the dish is
placed over water already boiling in the lower section of the
steamer and producing steam.
SAUCES AND CURRY PASTES
"Nam" is the Thai word for water and "menam"
means river. "Nam manao" is lemon juice and "nam
som" is vinegar. "Nam oy" is sugar cane juice,
"nam man" is oil and "nam man oy" is
oyster sauce or curry paste and "nam wan" a syrup.
But the most popular sauce in cooking, the queen of sauces, is
"nam pla" or fish sauce. Made by fermenting salted
fish in huge stone jars, then filtering off the liquid, it is
often used instead of salt. A newcomer's nose may find it a
little overpowering at first, but it would be sacrilege to
substitute common-or-garden salt. The particular flavour of
Thai cooking depends a lot on "nam pla" and the
novice should adopt good "nam pla" habits from the
start.
As well as being a key ingredient in many dishes, "nam
pla" provides the base for most of the sauces served with
them. When mixed with other ingredients, its aroma mingles
with theirs and it ceases to stand out so strongly. Spicy,
sweet and sour, savory and sweet sauces can be made from it
according to teh other elements used. The commonest of these
other ingredients are shrimp paste, tamarind, shallots,
garlic, chilies and sugar. If certain items are difficult to
find, substitute something more readily available which will
achieve the same effect. For example lemon juice, green
mangoes, cooking apples or grapefruit can be used to replace
the sharp flavor imparted by tamarind.
It is best to make sauces at the last minute as the
ingredients spoil if they marinate for too long. A blender can
be used for mashing and mixing the soft ingredients, but the
dry spices are much better ground with a pestle in a
mortar. Sauces and pastes are served cold in bowls or saucers.
For special occasions, tiny, individual sauce bowls are used,
but at everyday family meals people dip their pieces of meat,
fish or vegetable into a communal bowl. Alternatively, you can
spoon a little sauce onto your own plate.
At a typical meal Thais have two or three different sauces.
"Nam pla" mixed with lemon juice, shallots and
chilies goes well with fish and seafood; "nam prik"
- based on chili usually mixed with shrimp paste - is
excellent with all vegetables whether they are raw, steamed,
boiled or fried, and even when served with coconut cream.
These "nam prik" curry pastes are also called for as
an ingredient in many Thai dishes.
Following Chinese custom, Soya
sauce is served with certain
snacks and with red pork. Soya sauce is made by marinating
soya beans in salted water in the sun and then filtering the
liquid. Although not as aromatic as 'nam pla' ,its saltiness
means that it can serve the same purpose, and when mixed with
anchovy paste, it makes an acceptable substitute.
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